(Kashmir Rechords Exclusive)

In the spring of 1847, an intriguing journey to Kashmir unfolded, vividly chronicled in a historical travelogue titled Sair-e-Kashmir (Travel to Kashmir). Penned by  a Kashmiri Pandit Kanhaya Lal Aashiq Dehalvi, a resident of Akbarabad Sialkot (now in Pakistan), this diary recounts his travels alongside an Englishman, Mr. Winter Bedim, from Lahore to Srinagar via Jammu.

Written in the elegant Nastalique Urdu script, the travelogue offers a rich, daily account of their expedition over two months—from April to June 1847. The 41-page Roznamcha (diary) is more than a record of distances covered; it is a window into the landscapes, cultures, and communities encountered on this adventurous trek.

The Journey Begins

On April 5, 1847, the travellers set out from Lahore, passing through Gujranwala, Wazirabad and Jamki before reaching Bari Brahmana in Jammu on April 22, 1847. The weather greeted them with dust storms, and they found Jammu to be a city of stark contrasts. While the city’s narrow lanes and modest homes seemed unplanned, the palaces and noble dwellings exuded grandeur. The people, however, left a lasting impression with their warmth and hospitality.

Exploring the iconic Bahu Fort, Pandit Kanhaya Lal noted the fort’s formidable architecture, its ancient cannons, and its inaccessibility due to overgrown foliage. On April 25 1847, the party crossed the Chenab River at Akhnoor and began ascending through the Kohistani Ilaqa (mountainous region), choosing the Rajouri route instead of the snow-laden Banihal Pass.

Through Rajouri and Beyond

The travellers reached Rajouri by the end of April, finding it a bustling trade hub with a hospitable administration under Maharaja Gulab Singh. Moving onward, they crossed Thana Mandi and ventured through the perilous terrain of the Pir Panjal range. At Rattan Panchal, a towering peak at 9,000 feet, they marveled at the pristine natural springs, including the Ali Abad Sarai, before continuing to Heerpur and the cascading Aharbal waterfall.

Into the Heart of the Valley

By May,  1847, the party entered the verdant valley of Kashmir. They reached Kulgam on May 9, where they encountered a unique spring that spouted water a meter into the air. As they moved through Shahabad, Verinag, Kokernag, and Achabal, the travellers discovered ancient temples, royal gardens, and crystal-clear springs that captivated them.

At Achabal, they met one  Bhola Nath, a devoted caretaker of the spring and garden, who impressed them with his generosity and dedication to the site’s upkeep. The travelogue vividly describes the beauty of these places while lamenting the poor health and malnutrition prevalent among the local population.

Srinagar and Surroundings

On May 28, 1847 the group arrived in Srinagar, staying at Sheikh Bagh. They toured the city’s landmarks, including the Shankaracharya Temple, Hari Parbat, and the seven resilient wooden bridges spanning the Jhelum River. The harmonious coexistence of Hindu and Muslim religious sites left a profound impression on the travelers.

Exploring the Outskirts

Their journey extended beyond Srinagar to iconic sites like Gulmarg, Baramulla, and Manasbal Lake. The narrative describes the ropeway bridge at Uri, swaying precariously over roaring river waters, and the Pandav-era ruins scattered across the region.

At Pattan, they visited the ancient temples, and at Baba Reshi’s shrine, they learned about the unique customs of its caretakers. The journey culminated with visits to Kupwara, Trehgam, and the silk-producing villages where mulberry-fed silkworms thrived.

Legacy of the Travelogue

Sair-e-Kashmir is not merely a diary; it is a lens into the landscapes, architecture, and social conditions of 19th-century Kashmir. Pandit Kanhaya Lal’s evocative descriptions and Mr. Bedim’s company  immortalize their shared journey through time, leaving a timeless record for future explorers.

This travelogue bridges the past and present, allowing readers to walk alongside these intrepid travellers and witness the enchanting beauty of Kashmir through their eyes.