Englishman’s 1847 visit to Mattan, Anantnag, Srinagar

(Sair-e-Kashmir Part V)

( By: Kanwal Krishan Lidhoo)

Kashmir Rechords in its previous  four blogs had mentioned Englishman Mr. Winter Bedim’s visit to Jammu and Kashmir in 1847 recorded in the form of daily entries called ‘Roznamcha’ by one Pandit Kanhaya Lal Aashiq Dehalvi and later published  in the form of the  book under the title Sair-e-Kashmir. In thefifth part of the travelogue, we will begin with the visit of Mr. Bedim and party from Mattan town of Kashmir to Srinagar  with interesting anecdotes and their experiences so far unknown to us.

In his `Roznamcha’, Pandit Kanhaya Lal Aashiq Dehalvi mentions about a  hose or tank of Mattan (actually a spring) from which a stony passage leads to an adjoining tank which is very large and from here it passes towards a vast ground. It is this second hose or tank where people take a bath and they do not use the first tank for bathing purposes out of respect. This is called “Suraj Kund” and has the same status and reputation as that of “Gaya ji” where religious rituals (read Shraad) in honor of the dead elders are performed. A lot of fish reside in these waters and almost everybody feeds them. That is why they freely and fearlessly roam all around. The sight of fish feeding on a morsel of food droppings is strange. Scores of them pounce on it and make attempts to snatch the same. The constructions around the spring definitely project an aesthetic look and the whole place has become a nice tourist spot. A path inside the mountain at this place measuring round about twenty kos is rumored to directly lead to Kashmir (Read Srinagar), but as I ventured inside, I could hardly come up with a figure of hundred steps only. A large volume of water descends from above and floods this path filling and leveling it. As no breeze flows inside, this gives rise to uneasiness and suffocation. Only God should save a traveler facing these tribulations of flooding, the nasty smell of the torch and the suffocation caused by dampness arising out of paucity of air.

Anantnag, Malik Naag, Sona Naag

I stayed put in Mattan on 24th May 1847. Both I and Sahab (Mr. Bedim) went to see around over a distance of two and a half Kos. In Islamabad (Anantnag), two large springs exist side by side. The area is called Anantnag and a Hindu temple exists here. A large number of fish abound and nobody causes any harm to them. Thus, they continue to thrive here. A nearby spring is known by the name of “Malik Naag”. Its waters are relatively hot and reek of Sulphur. Sometimes, however, its waters get very hot. A spring adjacent to it is known as “Sona Naag”. Its waters are very cold and without any smell. What a strange thing to witness! Two identical springs, one very hot smelling of Sulphur and the other one with and odourless waters. Islamabad (Anantnag) is a large and a fairly populated town with a bazaar and good houses. Here “Pashmina” is washed and treated in a manner which no other place is seem to impart the effect to it like this place. Apart from this, a green hillock near this area also projects a beautiful look with a garden and one or two houses that have come up.

From `Brajbahara’ to Pampore via Awantipur

On 26^th May 1847, starting from Kelvan, some two and a half kos alongside the riverfront, we finally reached “Brajbahara”. The river that flows through Brajbahara originates from Verinag referred to earlier as Shahbad. The town is large and well populated. Here we boarded a boat for “Awantipur”. This is a very ancient town, which acted as the royal seat of power to many of the kings of yore. Many of the antiquated structures in this capital are visible to this day. Riding a boat along the course of the river towards the evening, we reached Pampore. A famous spring alluded to” Lal Maeji” ( Lal Ded) exists here. Many stories are attributed to her. Undoubtly she was a great soul and must have performed many miracles. We also saw saffron being cultivated here. Apart from this place nowhere in Kashmir is this magnificent thing grown. I happened to see the saffron farms. The way the poets of the yore and present have described it, I, however, could not find their expression worth of any true value. It could not bring a smile, leave alone a pleasant expression even. However, when the same dries up, a delightful aroma and flavor emanates from it. That is why the poets have exaggerated the quality of smile brought forth by saffron.

Stone idol at Pandrethan

A short walk through Pampore and we again travelled by boat over a distance of two and a half Kos and reached a place called Pandrethan. Many an ancient structure embedded in the ground becomes visible here. A large stone idol lays skelter on the riverbank. It is known as “Bhasmasur”, an “Asura” whom “Mahadev or Lord Shiva” reduced to ashes. It is made out of a large stone and is impressively awful. Here also, we moved around and later continued our journey towards Kashmir. In the evening, we arrived and stayed at “Sheikhbagh” and later went to see the “Vitasta” (the river) on boat. This river flows through the heart of Kashmir (Srinagar). Habitations galore on both its banks. Seven bridges built of stone and wood are very strong and resilient. Boats are used for transportations through the passages under these bridges. In the evening, Wazir Tannu and Jamadar Karma sent by Maharaja Gulab Singh brought some cash, fresh fruits and some sweetmeats. During the night, a letter from Ahmad Shah Naqshbandi, a hereditary Islamic spiritual leader was received. A reply was also forwarded to them detailing therein that they may visit us the next day.

Meeting with Ahmad Shah Naqshbandi

On 28th May 1847 at Srinagar, Ahmad Shah Naqshbandi came to see us. Words and expressions of mutual acknowledgement followed by conversations continued for a long time. The talk focused on the places to be visited around Kashmir (Srinagar).  As they prepared to leave, it was agreed that Sahab (Mr. Bedim) like all important and grand people will visit the house of Ahmad Shah Naqshbandi. After this interview, Sahab mentioned about the letters and gifts brought earlier and in a very graceful manner listed the detail of places to be visited in Kashmir (Srinagar). After this, Ahmad Shah took our leave and both Sahab (Mr. Bedim) and I, (Pandit Kanhaya Lal Aashiq) proceeded to enjoy the boat ride in Dal Lake. It is a huge water body extending over an area of approximately six or seven Kos. At the point where the river Vitasta enters in it, a solid span has been constructed and underneath it a door has been built in such a way that as and when the river gets flooded, the door automatically gets closed and the water from the river does not flood the lake beyond the required level and no harm or damage is caused to the habitations on the Dal lake. And once the water level recedes, the door automatically gets opened and the flow of water from the river into the lake is automatically maintained. The following is inscribed in Persian on the door:-

“The Founder of the Span  Mahesh Shankar Das (1085 A.H)”

Another door nearby has the following inscription on it:-

“This stands as part of the historical verse as the bridge got built and arranged by Choudhary (1086 A.H)’’

Dal lake and Hazratbal Shrine

A Muslim shrine on one side of the Dal Lake also exists and has been constructed in a very gracious manner and has a regal history. It houses the revered precious and pious hair strand belonging to the Prophet of Islam. Special prayers are held here in connection with the same. Naseem Bagh happens to be in its vicinity. This garden contains one-lakh chinar trees. (Figure seems to be exaggerated). Birds congregate in the evenings and it is an amazing experience to watch and listen to their chirping. The Dal as mentioned has the Shalimar garden on its other side. One has not seen such a visibly expansive and vast garden. Taking into account all hindrances that may be part of the adventure, it will take one full day to complete the rounds of the garden. The garden has been built on seven layers or levels. The houses that have been built at the end of each level allow a stream or water path to pass through them but the lavishness is such that no two houses are joined together in any manner and each house looks unique in its own way. Fruit and other types of trees have been grown and blooming flowers with smiles galore. As mentioned each of the houses in the garden holds a pool of water in the front. Fountains have been built in them. The water passages connecting these houses on both sides are also fitted with fountains allowing constant water flow through them at all times. The whole experience is seen to be believed.

The third side of the Dal Lake houses the Nishat Bagh. This garden has also been raised on four or five levels but does not appear to be as vast as Shalimar garden and in no way is it lesser in beauty and pleasant view. Fruit trees and diverse varieties of flowers have been grown in abundance and fountains on the pattern of Shalimar garden have also been fitted here. For the writer of this `Roznamcha’, a walk in this garden is enjoyed in a far better way than that of Shalimar. Since Shalimar garden is vast, its upkeep and cleaning usually gets difficult. In comparison, Nishat Bagh is neatly organized and is maintained in an orderly manner. Constructions are also worthy and compliment the needs of those who take a stroll in these gardens. City residents often come to visit this garden. This couplet comes upon everyone’s lips:-

Subah Dar Bagh- e- Nishat  Va Sham Dar Bagh- e- Naseem

(Mornings to be spent in the garden of joy and evenings in the garden of breeze)

In the middle of the Dal Lake, a construction on a raised platform structure known as Char Chinar has come up. Chinar trees around it seemed to be still growing. This platform seems to have given away. After completing our visit to all these places, we returned in the evening.

Visit to Shankaracharya hillock

On 29th May 1847, we visited Shankaracharya hillock. On top of this hillock is an ancient Shiva temple. The temple houses a fabulous Shivalinga which is sight worthy also. When Muslim rule was at its full might in Kashmir, this Shivalinga also suffered damage. It is believed that whosoever symbolically constructs a stone house here claims entry into a house in heaven. The writer also constructed a double storey house. On top of this hillock Srinagar city with all its crowds and people appear in full and magnificent view. Population of Srinagar city is large. In width it is small may be one and a half Kos, while it is five Kos long. After the visit we returned to our dwelling for rest. In the evening, we took a boat to visit the city areas.

Visit to Hari Parbat

On 30th May 1847, we went to see the shrine of Hari Parbat. On the way is the Ziyarat of Shah-e- Hamdan. Arches have been built in the wall in its rear and Hindus worship their Devi at this place. The two religions though contrary to each other exist side by side under one roof and are found complimenting in the most amicable and peace loving manner with each other. Near the Hari Parbat fort as mentioned a large mosque stands erect. Following is inscribed on its gates:-

The primary gate of the fort has the following inscription:-

We had a thorough walk inside the fort. The fort has been built on a hillock. Srinagar city appears in full view from here. The beauty of Dal Lake and Shalimar garden gets multiplied at this point. The first is a vast area of pure water and the other a pleasant garden. Up to the fourth level, this fort has been firmly built by ancient kings. A temple of Sharda Devi also exists here. The other six levels have been constructed for storing water and provisions. It can house more than a thousand soldiers and if need be more even up to thousands. In short, we returned to our place for rest and towards the evening visited Nishat Bagh. Sahab Bahadur (Mr. Bedim) enjoyed the same. In the evening, I went to a religious authority for discussion comprising of a very urgent and religious nature and met Razdan Sahab who is a descendant of a very learned family known throughout Punjab’’.

                                                                            (To be concluded)

In the previous  four blogs, Kashmir Rechords  carried the information about Englishman ( Mr. Bedim’s)  1847 travel to Kashmir via Jammu  dated  9th December, to be accessed  at: https://kashmir-rechords.com/englishmans-1847-travel-to-kashmir-via-jammu/  and  next  Englishman’s 1847 travel to Kashmir via Jammu, Rajouri, published on 12th December 2023, to be accessed at: https://kashmir-rechords.com/englishmans-1847-travel-to-kashmir-via-jammu-rajouri/. Part third of this travelogue inside Kashmir valley was published on 30th December 2023 to be accessed at https://kashmir-rechords.com/englishmans-1847-travel-to-kashmir-via-jammu. Part fourth of the travelogue was published on January 14, 2024 to be accessed here at https//Kashmir-rechords.com/englishmans-1847-travel-to-kashmir-via-jammu.

 “Sair-e- Kashmir 1278 AH” is written on the cover of the Book having 41 (forty-one) pages. The travelogue is between the periods of   April 1847 to June 1847.