Englishman’s 1847 visit to Baba Rishi, Bhadarkali Shrines

(Sair-e-Kashmir Concluding Part )

( By: Kanwal Krishan Lidhoo**)

Kashmir Rechords in its previous  five  blogs had mentioned Englishman Mr. Winter Bedim’s visit to Jammu and Kashmir in 1847 recorded in the form of daily entries called ‘Roznamcha’ by one Pandit Kanhaya Lal Aashiq Dehalvi and later published  in the form of the  book under the title Sair-e-Kashmir. In the sixth and final part of the travelogue, we will begin with the visit of Mr. Bedim and party from Srinagar towards Baramulla and onwards with interesting anecdotes and experiences so far unknown to us. Here we begin with the last part of “Sair-e-Kashmir’’ :

On 31st May, 1947, a boat ride again towards the downward course of Jehlum or Vitasta took us to Sumbal which appeared to be about nine kos from Kashmir (read Srinagar). A spring with deep and sizeable volume of water known as Manasbal exists at this place and is said to be an ancient one.

On 1^st of June, 1847, we left Sumbal for Mattan. ( Read it Pattan). Part of our journey of five kos by us was completed by boat and the remaining one by horse rides. We came across a shrine devoted to a holy man at Balhalas (A place named Palhalan misspelt as Balhalas). Further at a place called Pattan two very ancient temple structures exist. (Sugandesh temple built by king Kalsa of Kashmir) but nobody was able to provide the details regarding the same.

(The author seems to have been confused about Tappereshwar temple, the ruins of which still lie nearer to Sumbal and resemble those of Martand Surya Mandir. Since the architectural style of this archaeological site with walls enclosing a large body of water with a raised platform roughly gives the impression of a temple similar to Martand sun temple the author thus  dubs it as Mattan)

Visit to Baba Rishi Shrine, Gulmarag

On 2^nd June, 1847, we set up for a visit to the Ziarat (Shrine) of a very famous and pious man of yore Baba Rishi. This Ziarat is at a distance of some six kos from Pattan. Only men are allowed as the entry of women stands prohibited at this shrine. The attendants at this Ziarat do not marry and a majority of them are the ones whom their parents had willed to be placed in the service at this place. The wishes of having their eldest child  as male whenever that gets  fulfilled, the  parents donate them in the service of this shrine by handing them over to the attendants. Sometimes these children remain there as followers.

On third of June 1847 after having made our way over a distance of approximately one kos towards the mountain top from Baba Rishi we reached Gulmarg. This is an area which is famous for diversely coloured and varied  flower types . We also came across un melt snow on these tops.

As of now it being summer snow was still there and at places where there was no snow flowers red, yellow, white and dark seemed to be in full bloom. It seems as if they are getting their nourishment under snow. At that very moment as a ‘guz’ (approximately a metre) of thick snow was being cleared, flowers appeared to grow underneath it.

The amazing thing being that large patches of these diverse coloured flowers are seemingly arranged in beds of their own ilk. For example if the flowers happen to be of darker colour, a whole bed would be filled by these flowers only. The same would go for red and other colours. At this place nature appears to be its best gardener. The experience gathered by the writer at this moment was beyond description.

Visit to Baramulla, Uri

On the fourth June, 1847, we traversed a distance of six kos to reach Baramulla. This is a big town where one can find  eatables in abundance. The Deputy Kardar, Mathura Das got sick and thus we were assigned to the care of Kardar Gaddamal. At this place a large bridge has been erected over the river Vitasta  which blends perfectly in these wonderful environs. It was suggested that we move to Shankergarh and return via Nowshehra Baramulla as the travel on both these routes will be full of rewarding experience and the visit to the Uri bridge will also be interesting and therefore necessary. Since it was not possible to cross the bridge it was doubly suggested that the accompanying party of attendants would travel to Nowshehra first where it would be waiting for us near Uri bridge. In the meantime after having paid the necessary fare we would be meeting them on the other side of the bridge. The Kardar committed himself to this arrangement of transporting us along with our goods and necessary items.

On 5^th of June, 1847 we began our travel to Uri via Yaboo. After having covered a distance of five kos, the journey ended at Shakargarh where we also camped. On the way at a place called Peerni one kos from Uri Sultan Zabardast Khan along with some gifts came to see the Sahab. The place is beset in lovely lush green environs with recurring cascades as well as rivulets .

On sixth June, the journey commenced forward to a place near the Uri bridge. It was difficult to fathom how the bridge would be crossed, but when mazdoors crossed the same deftly along with the baggage on their backs we promptly gathered necessary courage. When every one of them reached the other end only then did I and Sahab (Mr Bedim) venture to cross. At first I had thought of crossing the bridge with my shoes on but after a few steps as  my feet gave me trouble  I was compelled to hand them  over to an accompanying boatman and I with a great difficulty finally began crossing the bridge again. As soon as we reached the middle of this bridge it seemed that its ropes will yield and we will be hurtled down into the fast flowing river underneath. The whole rope structure the moment we set foot on it would dangle so precariously that it would send a shiver down our spine and make us tremble. The experienced fishermen however emboldened us to continue and assured that they are at our disposal should any untoward incident happen. This somehow strengthened our resolve and then with great caution and trepidation we finally did cross the bridge. Now let me make a mention about the bridge.

Ropeway Bridge

The layout of the ropeway bridge has been set out in a manner that its lower portion has been built with some very strong tree bark and so are the supporting ropeways. These both act as horizontal and vertical arms and support structures. Wooden planks have been set for walking at their base. One has to move forward by treading on every such plank. The portion at the lower end of this ropeway structure is very filthy and the side arms somewhat thicker. One has to move forward by holding the side arms by both hands while putting ones best foot forward on the lower connected planks. The ropeway being nearly seventy guz long, the structure dangles at each step giving rise to a tremendous sense of fear. The river which lays some twenty to twenty five metres below moves with such a ferocious speed,  its waters roar and splash against its banks higher and higher only to missile many metres into the air appearing to stand as tall as a mountain.

As one’s gaze catches the flow of water below one is paralysed by the thought that the ropeway may yield at any moment. Finally this treacherous ropeway was somehow crossed by us. We were greeted by the attendants along with our advance baggage at the other end. Thereafter we continued our journey by boarding the same carriages that were already arranged for on the designated route towards Uri.  At Uri, Raja Nawab Khan came to see Sahab. Some moments in this playful conversation were enjoyed by both.

On the morning of seventh June, 1847, elder brother of Raja Nawab Khan Ataullah Khan came to see Sahab. After exchange of necessary pleasantries and gifts etc. Mutual conversations took place in an atmosphere of camaraderie. After breakfast we left Uri for Baramulla and arrived at Naubahar at a distance of six kos. Some ancient stone structures caught our eye at two or three places along the way. At Naubahar, Raham Dil Khan Kochak, brother of Raja of Naubahar came to see us and disclosed that his elder brother Raja Naubahar being indisposed could not come to see us. The way forward from this place is hilly and the roads are bad.

On eighth of June we journeyed towards Baramulla. At a distance of half a kos we came across some ancient structures attributed to Pandav era. Sahab ( Mr Bedim) drew a drawing of these. The way forward being mountainous there was nothing worth mentioning. These buildings though very old stand tall to this day nevertheless they seem to have yielded at one or two places.

At a place some fifteen kos towards north west of Baramulla known as Sogam  it appears that the earth has been set on fire. Sahab decided to inspect this place also.

Visit to Handwara

On ninth June, 1847, we continued our stay at Baramulla and since nothing worthwhile did happen the same did not merit worth entry in the diary. However, I did go out to tour the bazaars and found the shops well stocked with food and other items. Some shortage of grain was however noticed. On tenth of June, 1847, we left Baramulla for a place called Handwara which is at a distance of nine kos from here. The Sun got very hot at a village “Mound” some five kos on the way. Thus we made a brief halt. Towards the afternoon we commenced our journey and arrived at Handwara in the evening. Kardar Radha Krishan was nowhere to be seen; however his attendant did come and explained the former’s absence on account of being busy in connection with the distribution of grains to public.

Visit to Bhadarkali Shrine

On eleventh of June,  as we were travelling a distance of some seven Kos, at a place called Nahama we learned that a spring at a distance of further two kos lies at a place called Bhadarkali. We paid a visit to this place. The spring is worth a sight with clean waters bestowed with good digestive power. We spent some moments at this place and as was required and returned to Sogam which stands at a distance of half a kos from this place. The whole earth of this place seems to be scorched though not aflame. Some residents disclosed that some 30 years before the earth here started burning up and since then the same happens after every ten years. Though the same has now stopped, Sahab did inspect this place. The soil does not seem to have been mixed up with any sulphur etc. but some substance does exist which catches fire by coming into contact with air. We nonetheless returned to Bijhama for the night stay. In between Nadir Ali Khan son of Raja Muzaffar Kan came to see us and stayed for the night.

Twelfth June, 1847  was the day for our visit to Pachkote. For this we had to travel a distance of seven kos.  As nothing worthwhile came up that could have found its way in the diary nothing was entered. Here some soldiers from Maharaja Gulab Singh’s army are stationed and they do issue warnings against any transgression of law. But they certainly are not able to effectively deal with this. The way to the fort at “Karnah” which stands atop the hill is very steep. A small company of soldiers at Karnah is stationed but the writ of Maharajas soldiers does not run here.  This road leads up to Pachkot only. Even though the area is mountainous but it is not insurmountable. The population is lesser and so is the supply of provisions.

On thirteenth of June after travelling some four kos we reached Meelyal. Here we left our stuff and we moved some one and a half kos up to visit “Sotsar” springs. The water is crystal clean and actually sprouts from four independent springs lying side by side. One could, however, gather no information regarding the historicity of this place but nevertheless it definitely turned out to be an interesting place. The residents of Karnah stated that the local king is a nominal one without powers but he does operate from the fort and collects revenue for the Maharaja.. Strangely due to some unknown reasons the Maharaja invaded him. He does command the affiliation of some two thousand soldiers and if need be twenty thousand more soldiers can be called up for service by him. The place is treacherous and no arms are also available. The local king thus stands nowhere in comparison to Maharaja Gulab Singh but he is capable of protecting and defending his honour. The matters of revenue are resolved by splitting the same in equal halves. The land owning class pays half portion of the revenue accruing out of agricultural produce in addition to some money which additionally gets exchanged.

We stayed put at Meelyal on the fourteenth of June 1847 and after finishing the breakfast we went to see a fairly high mountain known as “Koh Darawah” at a distance of four kos. A road with the same name runs through this mountain.  Here we roamed to our heart’s fill and enjoyed the vast green spaces with abundant green trees. A strange sight unfolded in front of our eyes. From a distance we witnessed a creature which looked exactly like a golden animal. Its feather like hair was resplendent with luminous golden colours and the rays of sum seemed to emanate and reflect from it. I tried my best to capture it but could not lay my hands on it as it hid in the bushes. Additionally a flower of the size of a human palm existing in extremely right proportions exuding a strong perfume was also witnessed by us.

The beauty of the moment lay in the fact that the whole tract resembles a bouquet of colourful flowers which includes white ones and they all seem to revolve in spirals. Beholding of such a sight wherein every flower is arranged in a very huge bouquet is indeed a divine experience. To cut a long story short the evening here was spent in witnessing this strange and fulfilling spectacle of colours. We naturally drifted into a blissful sleep throught the night.

Visit to Kupwara

We left Meelyal on the fifteenth of June and advancing over a distance of seven kos reached Kupwara in the evening. We stopped at a place called Chitrang in Trehgam where a spring filled with life giving powers was seen in its full glory. Here silk is also produced with the help of its waters and the standard rate for a seer of silk works out to be eight rupees and is slightly less than a kilogram. The silk worms feed voraciously on mulberry leaves, branches and leaves of which are spread out in a field and in a matter of fifteen days only these silkworms achieve an exponential growth. It is here the silk worms set themselves up for humans to produce silk from them. The raw silk develops in the pupa and is later woven as a coil or a pleat bundle. As soon as the weather favouring its development comes to an end the pupae are boiled in hot water and later dried. This is what is known as “Abrasium”. The same afterwards is woven as the silk thread. We left Kupwara on the sixteenth of June and proceeded towards “Lolab” an all pervading mountainous region.  And since nothing worthwhile came up nothing could be recorded in the diary.

Zain Lank in Wular lake

On the seventeenth of June 1947  after having left in the morning an uphill distance of about four kos was climbed. The remaining three kos were completed on foot on a highly dilapidated road which took us to Alsoo. (Read Aloosa). We boarded a boat on the next day I.e. the eighteenth June 1847 and left towards a spring in the midst of a large lake known as “Wular” Lake. For the luggage and accessories to reach “Bandipore” we directed the syce to load and proceed from a place called “ Bonakote “ the distance of which from Aloosa is approximately seven kos. In the meantime while taking a joy ride in the Wular Lake we came across an ancient structure in the midst of this lake. This is known as “Lank” (Zain Lank). Following is inscribed on it:-

To be present in the moment in a place like this  which is like a  mini island like patch in the midst of waters all around it, the depth of which cannot be fathomed and where the view of its banks eludes the eye is an amazing experience. It is said that as many as three hundred sixty villages exist in horizontal as well as vertical plane on its banks. From here we proceeded to Bandipora and after resting for a while we continued on horses to reach Bonakote. Our resolve to proceed further to “Gilgit” and “Gurez” areas got firm. But since rations on this long route are not forthcoming it was decided to arrange the stocking of provisions for about fifteen to sixteen days. Again as nothing of the sort could be found in a village like this, the onus of providing the same fell on Maharaja Gulab Singh’s Kardars who agreed to arrange them .

On account of being indisposed on the nineteenth of June, we preferred to stay at Banakote. Maharaja Gulab Singh’s Kardar Gurudat Singh appeared with rations worth four days for our onward journey and informed that these rations will suffice till Gurez, wherefrom further essentials worth ten days can be acquired for the trip to Jasora. “The rations for onward movement to Gilgit can be picked from Jasora itself.” He said.

The high official from Jasora, Ghulam Wazir accompanied by the Wazir of Gilgit both paid a visit. They were under obligation of presenting certain gifts along with horses to Maharaja at Kashmir (Srinagar). When we tried to enquire about our onward journey they told us that the whole extension to Gilgit from this place onwards is barren and unpopulated. Nothing grows here. Neither the firewood nor any water is available. Water is made by melting ice. Only three villages are known to exist even when Jasore is supposed to include fourteen hamlets of these villages. Similarly the area from Jasore to Gilgit is also spread over three to four huddles of villages which is to say that human habitations are seen at six or seven places only along this route and the population is very scant. It inter alia also suggests that there is no way to acquire any provisions on this long route. Wafadar Gurezwala  met us on this occasion. This elderly person used to be a landlord of some area in Gurez  but during the time of General Myan Singh he lost his suzerainty.

After leaving Bonakote and crossing an uphill distance of seven kos we reached “Pochi Baaz” in the evening. Nothing but mountains caught up our view. A stream however did run all along. Therefore considering it to be an ideal place to take rest we decided to camp here for the night. There was snow also. No tree or firewood was available. We did try to move into a nearby cliff to get some of it but the same was so dank that it hardly caught fire. I may mention a very interesting incident that took place here. Since the flow of water had been full some moments before and as soon as we finished our meals we required cleaning and washing our crockery, suddenly the stream had run dry. As there was no option we slept in such helpless state. And when morning broke we again noticed the stream full of water. This indeed was amazing. Eventually it became clear that it is actually the snow that feeds this stream and during the night when it is very cold the water freezes to melt again in the mornings and water flow is released again. The whole place is however very cold and the snowfall continues for over ten months.

On twenty first of June, 1947, we moved a distance of ten kos and managed to reach a place called “Dodkho”. No human habitations exist and as prudent it seemed we camped by the side of a big waterfall. The mountainous path is highly treacherous and lays covered with snow. One  therefore is forced to walk on foot.

Visit to Gurez Valley

On 22^nd June after continuing our trek over five kos we reached “Dobroo” a village in Gurez valley. This valley is home to some four big and three small villages. The locals go in for some sort of agriculture here. However except for a cereal that goes by the name of “Tronya” and some variety of peas nothing else grows around here. Residents of the area use this Tronya to make their bread and consume it along with peas as mentioned. The mighty river Kishenganga flows with full roar at this place with its sweet and cold waters.

A flyover has been built over this river with an extension of a house where some twelve to thirteen soldiers employed in the service of Maharaja Gulab Singh reside . The way forward is hilly and the first village is “Danpora”. Jasora lies some ten kilometres to its west. Taking into consideration the logistics of our onward movement to Gilgit we decided to acquire our provisions for ten more days. At this moment all soldiers who acted as our guards except me bade farewell to Sahab. The locals here speak a language different from Kashmiri and this place seems to be the last frontier of Kashmir valley.

Trip to Dawar, Gilgit

And now begins the trip to the snowy and mountainous area of Gilgit.

The day of twenty third June, 1847 was spent at Dawar and in anticipation of moving to Gilgit the next day, we bid adieu to everybody. Today Garbha Jamaadaar in the employment of Maharaja Sahab presented himself with eight days of rations and left. Tomorrow as Sahab Bahadur will be visiting Gilgit, others will head towards Kashmir (Srinagar).

On account of the rains on 24^th we stayed put at Dawar. In the meantime a letter from Lieutenant Taylor addressed to Sahab was received asking the later to relieve Pandit Kanhaya Lal (myself) for directions to report at Srinagar  to complete some pending urgent government work. Sahab Bahadur therefore bade goodbye to me and decided to take the services of only six soldiers (deployed at Gurez fort) to accompany him to Gilgit.

On 25^th of June, 1847, I along with other employees gathered for moving to Srinagar and left for Dodkho after travelling five kos and spent the night there.  On 26^th June after having left Dodkho in the morning we arrived at the mountain top “Drethan” and at once I noticed that the mane of my horse had turned white for no apparent reason. Even though I did not happen to see any snow falling, this amazing scene unfolded before my eyes. Considering that I had put on four coats of clothing including my “Choga” (Cloak) and the covering garment over it plus an earmuff which exposed my eyes only to make me see a very short distance in front, I could not notice any snow. It was however given to understand that it indeed was snowing. We all made a huddle and decided to do things on priority. I suggested to them that during such weather disruptions it is always prudent to stay in a safe house and as soon this is over only then should we move further. The moment this snow freezes it turns into stone thereby ceasing all routes of escape. If the narrow passage linking this area to mainland gets frozen we all are going to perish in these harsh locales. Thus as far as possible we need to make an escape from here since it is always the peaks that receive the highest snow in comparison to the valley areas. Everybody understood and appreciated the suggestion and so we fled from this spot. I left my horse and started running and gave directions to my syce to continue the movement on horse as long as the poor animal is able to take him otherwise he should dump it in the first instance there and thereafter run to save his life. Running like this we somehow managed to cover a distance of three kos. Due to intense cold and the pain we had got it was not possible to continue further. After collecting firewood at this place we stoked some fire and warmed ourselves. Now every one of us had got together as planned and we all proceeded to Pochibaag. Fatigued as we were we still discussed whether it was possible to move ahead or not.  At this point I intervened and apprehended that the snowfall during the night may not allow us to escape from this place and we may remain dumped here. As nobody listened to me I told them to get lost whereupon they understood the gravity of the situation and agreed to move during the night and thus we made the much needed return journey of seven kos to Bonakote. Immediately I called for one Malik Sahab and ordered him to clear his Hamam where we could spend the night. We all went hungry as the things and other stuff was not received by us. In spite of this,  Malik Sahab proved to be a great host. He at once slaughtered a fat sheep. As no utensils for cooking the same lay with us we pierced a branch into it and began barbecuing it with the only available salt. We all had it to our heart’s fill and very little of it was left. Even though it was semi cooked and without the luxury of spices, it tasted so good that one is not able to forget the taste it left in my mouth till this day.

On 27^th June 1847, the moment our stuff arrived in the morning we exchanged the coolies and proceeded towards Bandipora which lay at a distance of three kos from here. We dried our wet stuff here.

On 28^th after traversing seven kos by boat over Wullar we returned to Sumbal and spent the night there.

On 29^th June, 1847 we again reached to Kashmir (Srinagar) and had a meeting with Lieutenant Taylor Sahab who put me up at Sheikhbaagh. I remained there for about two months to complete my governmental assignments. Thereafter I returned to my Board office s at Lahore.

Mention About Kashmir

Some mention about Kashmir is necessary. Kashmir in olden days was known by the name of Srinagar and only ardent pietists lived here. Except for Pandits nobody resided here. They did not know anything about sumptuous food. They depended upon plant life and survived on greens only. No rancour, jealousy or hatred existed among the population. This was a heavenly place. As one poet has put it.:-

In course of time Afghans and other mountainous people conquered it and afflicted much violence on people and desecrated and destroyed their places of worship and forcefully converted them to Islam. As a result only two communities Pandits and Muslims live here. However, Maharaja Ranjeet Singh lead three expeditions to conquer it, only to succeed the fourth time and ensured that Sikhs can move freely inside the territory of Kashmir, a land which is fertile and endowed with a salubrious climate. Thus Sikhs also began to reside in Kashmir. Further when the country came under Maharaja Gulab Singh every community began to live and thrive here.

The river “Vitasta” also known as “Jehlum” in Punjab flows through the city of Srinagar and accommodates the population on its both banks. The houses have been constructed in such a way that their doors or the rooms directly open or extend over its waters. These are often supported by wooden poles which have been embedded into the walls of polished stones of the walls of these houses. The extensions like these act as sitting rooms. People also bathe in such rooms to keep themselves safe from harsh winters and the impairing wind. Many rivulets and streams have been drawn from this river to every Mohalla and locality and market. Smaller boats known as “Shikaras” continuously roam and ferry people in these waters. A water channel even leads into the Dal Lake. As many as seven bridges have been constructed over this river. They are called “Kadal” in Kashmiri. These are “Hameera Kadal” , “Habba Kadal” ,”Aali Kadal” , “Zaina Kadal” , “Fateh Kadal” , “Nawa Kadal” and “Safa Kadal”. Rows upon rows of shops are seen alongside these bridges especially Zaina Kadal. The population of a full Mohalla is accommodated there. Shopkeepers sell every kind of goods in this bazaar.  Every house is seen to grow fruit trees and nowhere in the world do these fruits occur. It is learnt that the grapes of Kabul, pomegranate of Qandhar and the apples of Iran are somewhat superior but the variety of fruit that Kashmir grows has no equal anywhere in the world. This is known as “Glass”. It is such a small, sweet and rounded fruit which is red in colour and its softness is such that one cannot feel its peel. The irony is as soon as the fruit gets detached from the tree it attracts larvae to it. Thus it is in the fitness of things to enjoy this fruit as soon as it is plucked otherwise its freshness may be lost within two hours. The clustered fruit contains a thin cuticle which is not more than the dimension of human hair follicle.  In the same sweet and refreshing category of fruits, fall mulberry, grapes, apples and pears. These are extraordinary in their own way. The poor use it to sweeten their food items. These fruits in addition to being very tasty are digestible also. Whenever they are consumed after a full meal one gets a voracious appetite within no time. Additionally fruits like apricots, cherries plum and melon are sweet beyond description. One has to eat them to know their taste. And the extraordinary “Pashmina” of Kashmir has attained prominence like the sun and the same applies to everything in Kashmir. Thus the pen cannot make a mention about its grandeur. It is only seen to be believed.

It appears to me that to continue writing about the same will be a waste of time. A man whatever his taste for drinking if he so desires or whatever the religion he professes, he will achieve any goal he intends to set for himself. The solitude peculiar to this place is not found anywhere. The man who is driven to worldly pleasures will find that there is no better place for him to enjoy and if one happens to be poor one can carry on nicely with his life on a small budget. The extraordinary thing about this place is that one can fill one’s tummy with bread and meat on a meagre sum of one and a half rupees. If one intends to sustain oneself on fruits only one can do so without paying a penny. The writer has heard from English travellers that such a place does not exist even in England. The country of Britain thus stands nowhere in comparison to Kashmir.

Now I come to the end of it and hope my esteemed readers of these pages will always pray for my welfare and should they come across any inaccuracies and inconsistencies in them, they may kindly pardon me for the same. These pages have been penned down for travel enthusiasts only and not with the intention to demonstrate any writing capability or competence.

(CONCLUDED)

*N.B: The earlier five episodes of the travelogue can be assessed at:

In the previous  five blogs, Kashmir Rechords  carried the information about Englishman ( Mr. Bedim’s)  1847 travel to Kashmir via Jammu  dated  9th December, to be accessed  at: https://kashmir-rechords.com/englishmans-1847-travel-to-kashmir-via-jammu/  and  next  Englishman’s 1847 travel to Kashmir via Jammu, Rajouri, published on 12th December 2023, to be accessed at: https://kashmir-rechords.com/englishmans-1847-travel-to-kashmir-via-jammu-rajouri/. Part third of this travelogue inside Kashmir valley was published on 30th December 2023 to be accessed at https://kashmir-rechords.com/englishmans-1847-travel-to-kashmir-via-jammu. Part fourth of the travelogue was published on January 14, 2024 to be accessed here at https//Kashmir-rechords.com/englishmans-1847-travel-to-kashmir-via-jammu. Part V of the travelogue :“Englishman’s 1847 visit to Mattan, Anantnag, Srinagar” can be accessed at: https://kashmir-rechords.com/englishmans-1847-visit-to-mattan-anantnag-srinagar/  “Sair-e- Kashmir 1278 AH” is written on the cover of the Book having 41 (forty-one) pages. The travelogue is between the periods of   April 1847 to June 1847.

**Kanwal Krishan Lidhoo, an accredited translator of Kashmiri, Urdu and Hindi by Sahitya Akademi New Delhi and Indian Institute of Languages Mysore,  is associated with the institution of All India Radio (AIR) where he  worked as Senior most Producer. During his career of more than thirty years  in AIR, (including Radio Kashmir Srinagar and Radio Kashmir, Jammu),  he has produced hundreds of programmes covering a wide range of topics and interests that range from ‘Features’, ‘Dramas’ , ‘Literary Magazines’ , ‘Current Affairs’ and overseen Music recordings. He also has the professional expertise  of anchoring Live shows and News.His books of Translation include:1. “Samay Matrika” … Translation of 10th century Sanskrit classic of the same name by Acharya Ksemendra of Kashmir.2.Sahitya Akademi New Delhi’s “Hum Kaal Sindhi Afsana Sombran” a Kashmiri translation of Hindi scripted ” Samkaleen Hindi Kathayen”, and under publication “Navi Yogikie Vaaeris Dar” a Kashmiri translation of English scripted collection of Punjabi short stories of renowned Punjabi short story writer Mohinder Singh Sarna. 3. Indian Institute of Languages publication “Hindustaenie Falsafekie Khad-o-Khal” …The Kashmiri translation of “Outlines of Indian Philosophy” by world renowned Professor M.Hiriyanna.4.The Writer of the Monograph on veteran and doyen of Kashmiri poetry, Makhan Lal Kanwal…. Sahitya Academy Publication, Delhi.  Kanwal Krishan Lidhoo is also a  short story writer in Kashmiri. In addition, he has presented a number of essays in Kashmiri.