Englishman’s 1847 travel to Kashmir via Jammu

( By: Kanwal Krishan Lidhoo)*

We are highly indebted to Rafi Ahmad Masoodi Sahab, Educationist, Writer, Historian and a distinguished Academician, originally from Sopore, Kashmir who has made available to us the copy of a historical travelogue from Lahore to Srinagar via Jammu region. The name of the book is “Sair-e- Kashmir” (Travel to Kashmir) written by Pandit Kanhaya Lal Aashiq Dehalvi, probably a Kashmiri who goes on record to mention that he published the accounts of these travelogues for the benefit of those who are interested to visit Kashmir. The book has originally been written in old style Urdu language (Nastalique) and has been recast in the same font.

Pandit Kanhaya Lal Aashiq Dehalvi being a Kashmiri Pandit is testified by the details of a critical study on the same topic published by Dr. Sumaira Ijaz of Department of Urdu of Sargodha University Punjab.

The book is actually a compendium of daily entries of his accounts in his diary during a travel, which was undertaken by him along with an Englishman named Mr. Winter Bedim, which he calls ‘Roznamcha’ in 1847.  Pandit Kanhaya Lal Aashiq was a resident of Akbarabad Sialkot (now in Pakistan) who sought employment in the office of the then British Agent in Lahore, some Colonel Lawrence due to his proficiency in English language.  Thus, he wrote this travelogue also for the Englishman, with whom he had travelled to Kashmir via Jammu.  “Sair-e- Kashmir 1278 AH” is written on the cover of the Book having 41 (forty-one) pages. The travelogue is between the period of   April 1847 to June 1847.

Pandit Dehalvi’s entries in his accounts refer to the year 1847 and make fascinating study besides carrying invaluable information from a historical perspective. The entries are poignant and vivid as far as they conjure up the images of daily life in places he travelled.

The journey is said to have begun from Lahore on 5^th of April 1847 A.D. The party of Englishman, Pandit Dehalvi along with a posse of orderlies marched from Lahore through Gujranwala, Wazirabad Jamgi etc and finally halted at Bari Brahmana on the morning of Jammu on 22^nd April.

Pandit Kanhaya Lal Aashiq Dehalvi writes:

“In the morning of 22^nd April, we reached Badyal Brahmana.  Arjan Singh, an official of Maharaja Gulab Singh’s court accompanied by one Choudhari Bishan and three other Zamindaars presented themselves in service to receive us. It was very cloudy and fierce dust storms raged all around.

We reached Jammu city on 23rd of April, 1847 which is a very beautiful place on the banks of river Tawi and its entry is being made through the Gummat gate. The door is not so strong; however, the structure is on a raised ground. In fact, the whole city has been built on a raised ground. Though no settlements were seen in or around the gate, we were however lead along a path by one Sokha Singh to Maharaja Gulab Singh’s palace for our further stay. In the meantime, Wazir Zorawar Singh accompanied by Deewan Jwala Sahay and Deewan Karamchand along with other associates arrived for a meeting with the Maharaja Sahib. I was to act as the translator between Mr. Bedim and Jawala Sahai. The Englishman enquired as to where from could he proceed towards Kashmir. He was advised to seek a route other than Banihal. Even though some semblance of a road does exist but the same was not fit to be travelled as, it is clad under heavy snow at this time of the year. Instead, the Englishman was asked to proceed through Rajouri which was a better option and he did the same.

`Roznamcha’ about Jammu City

Pandit Dehalvi’s `Roznamcha’ about Jammu city, however, presents a mixed picture. According to him, the houses and shops are of a very low height, dingy and the city structure is unplanned with narrow lanes and by lanes. However, the palace and the structure of the dwellings of nobility are grand. “The people are highly hospitable, sincere and loving” he goes on to mention. The party is said to have proceeded on 24^th April towards the Bahu Fort. Pandit ji is on record to note that the fort is endowed with a big gun what he calls “Zarb-E-Kalan” Tope and as many as seventeen smaller guns known as “Zarb-E-Khurd” (Smaller guns) (Page (7) of the Book.). The fort is visualised as a very strong one, which appears to be inaccessible due to overgrown bushes and is at a formidable height from the town”

Family Tree of Maharaja Gulab Singh

Pandit Kanhaya Lal Ashiq Dehalvi has also included the family tree of Maharaja Gulab Singh. He also makes a mention about Maharaja Ranbir Singh, the heir apparent whom he calls ‘ Tika Sahib’ and also Mian Jawahar Singh eldest son of Raja Dhyan Singh, who accompanied them to Bahu Fort.

 (This is the first part of the series in which we are highlighting the travelogue titled “Sair-e Kashmir” written by Pandit Kanhaya Lal Aashiq Dehalvi in 1847. Part second of the blog will shortly highlight the details based on the onward historical journey to Kashmir valley).

• * Kanwal Krishan Lidhoo, an accredited translator of Kashmiri, Urdu and Hindi by Sahitya Akademi New Delhi and Indian Institute of Languages Mysore,  is associated with the institution of All India Radio (AIR) where he  worked as Senior most Producer. During his career of more than thirty years  in AIR, (including Radio Kashmir Srinagar and Radio Kashmir, Jammu),  he has produced hundreds of programmes covering a wide range of topics and interests that range from ‘Features’, ‘Dramas’ , ‘Literary Magazines’ , ‘Current Affairs’ and overseen Music recordings. He also has the professional expertise  of anchoring Live shows and News.
• His books of Translation include:
• 1. “Samay Matrika” … Translation of 10th century Sanskrit classic of the same name by Acharya Ksemendra of Kashmir.
• 2.Sahitya Akademi New Delhi’s “Hum Kaal Sindhi Afsana Sombran” a Kashmiri translation of Hindi scripted ” Samkaleen Hindi Kathayen”, and under publication “Navi Yogikie Vaaeris Dar” a Kashmiri translation of English scripted collection of Punjabi short stories of renowned Punjabi short story writer Mohinder Singh Sarna.
• 3. Indian Institute of Languages publication “Hindustaenie Falsafekie Khad-o-Khal” …The Kashmiri translation of “Outlines of Indian Philosophy” by world renowned Professor M.Hiriyanna.
• Kanwal Krishan Lidhoo is also a  short story writer in Kashmiri. In addition, he has presented a number of essays in Kashmiri.